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--- build:thermal [2026/08/03 22:50] – created nigel
+++ build:thermal [2026/08/12 22:25] (current) – [Steps] nigel
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 This documents the process I'm currently following when etching things. I've documented what I do for a two sided board, if your doing a single sided then simple drop the steps for alignment and protecting each side.
+Note when handling ANY chemicals I recommend you use gloves and safety glasses. I also tend to use an apron in case of splashes but that's more optional, it just saves clothes, gloves and glasses save you and your eyes! I also recommend having a well ventilated space some of these chemicals smell rather bad and are not good for you, especially the acetone.
 ==== Software ====
   * [[https://www.kicad.org|KiCad]]
@@ Line 7: / Line 10: @@
 ==== Equipment ====
+  * Nitrile gloves
+  * Protective glasses
   * Double sided PCB, cut to size (see step 1).
   * 400 grit sand paper and block.
   * Isopropyl alchohol.
-  * Acetone((I recommend using gloves and eye protection every time you use ANY chemicals.))
+  * Acetone.
-  * Etchant mix.
+  * [[etchant|Etchant mix]].
   * Permanent marker (like a Sharpie).
   * Some sheets of kitchen roll.
@@ Line 18: / Line 23: @@
   * Badge laminator, I got a GBC Heatseal H110 on eBay that works well for me.
   * Pins, I just use some berry headed pins for alignment.
-  * Drill((I eventually got a Dremel drill that fits their [[https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/220-01-26150220aa\|220-01 WorkStation]], this gives me a great drill press for drilling holes later.)) with 0.3mm bit, for alignment holes (a Buch of other sizes are useful for later).
+  * Drill((I eventually got a Dremel drill that fits their [[https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/220-01-26150220aa\|220-01 WorkStation]], this gives me a great drill press for drilling holes later.)) with 0.6mm bit, for alignment holes (a bunch of other sizes are useful for later).
   * Adhesive shelf liner, again an [[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WZ2JMA|Amazon]] purchase.
   * Masking tape
   * Cutting board
-  * Scalpel and blades, I've used a scalpel rather than a craft knife for a while, works for me.
+  * Scalpel and blades, I've used a scalpel rather than a craft knife for ages, works for me.
 ==== Steps ====
-  - In KiCad add some alignment holes somewhere near the corners of each side of your design being sure they are all equally distant from the edge, for the pins I'm using I create these on the F.Cu and B.Cu layers and give them a radius of 0.3mm to match the pins I use later. Run the DRC and be sure they don't clip anything they should not.
+  - In KiCad add some alignment holes somewhere near the corners of each side of your design being sure they aligned front on top of back, for the pins I'm using I create these on the F.Cu and B.Cu layers and give them a radius of 0.3mm to match the pins I use later. Run the DRC and be sure they don't clip anything they should not.
   - Now trim your PCB to size, I tend to give it a but of extra length (5-10mm each end) to give me a location to grip as I'm working with it. Then clean the PCB, I sand the surface lightly with a 400 grit then using some kitchen roll clean the surfaces with the Isopropyl Alcohol. DO NOT touch these surfaces afterwards other than using the end parts.
   - From KiCad plot SVGs of the F.Cu (mirrored) and the B.Cu (NOT mirrored). I then use Inkscape to put both of these on the same page then I print that page, in Inkscape I set the Paper Type to be 'stationary-heavyweight', this again increases the toner density. I'm printing onto the PCB transfer paper so be sure to print onto the shiny side!