This documents the process I'm currently following when etching things. I've documented what I do for a two sided board, if your doing a single sided then simple drop the steps for alignment and protecting each side.

Note when handling ANY chemicals I recommend you use gloves and safety glasses. I also tend to use an apron in case of splashes but that's more optional, it just saves clothes, gloves and glasses save you and your eyes! I also recommend having a well ventilated space some of these chemicals smell rather bad and are not good for you, especially the acetone.

• KiCad
• Inkscape

• Nitrile gloves
• Protective glasses
• Double sided PCB, cut to size (see step 1).
• 400 grit sand paper and block.
• Isopropyl alchohol.
• Acetone.
• Etchant mix.
• Permanent marker (like a Sharpie).
• Some sheets of kitchen roll.
• Thermal paper, I used PCB heat toner transfer paper from Amazon.
• Laser printer¹⁾, I have an HP LaserJet MFP M426f from a previous business.
• Badge laminator, I got a GBC Heatseal H110 on eBay that works well for me.
• Pins, I just use some berry headed pins for alignment.
• Drill²⁾ with 0.6mm bit, for alignment holes (a bunch of other sizes are useful for later).
• Adhesive shelf liner, again an Amazon purchase.
• Masking tape
• Cutting board
• Scalpel and blades, I've used a scalpel rather than a craft knife for ages, works for me.

1. In KiCad add some alignment holes somewhere near the corners of each side of your design being sure they are all equally distant from the edge, for the pins I'm using I create these on the F.Cu and B.Cu layers and give them a radius of 0.3mm to match the pins I use later. Run the DRC and be sure they don't clip anything they should not.
2. Now trim your PCB to size, I tend to give it a but of extra length (5-10mm each end) to give me a location to grip as I'm working with it. Then clean the PCB, I sand the surface lightly with a 400 grit then using some kitchen roll clean the surfaces with the Isopropyl Alcohol. DO NOT touch these surfaces afterwards other than using the end parts.
3. From KiCad plot SVGs of the F.Cu (mirrored) and the B.Cu (NOT mirrored). I then use Inkscape to put both of these on the same page then I print that page, in Inkscape I set the Paper Type to be 'stationary-heavyweight', this again increases the toner density. I'm printing onto the PCB transfer paper so be sure to print onto the shiny side!
4. Next I cut out the printed images and stick one of them onto the PCB (toner facing the copper) using the masking tape.
5. I then heat the laminator and repeatedly pass the PCB through the laminator, I do this about 20 times. You will probably need to hold the PCB with a bit of kitchen roll or something as it gets HOT! After this plunge the PCB into a bath of cold water and leave it for ten minutes.
6. Once the board has had a soak you should be able to peel off the paper and masking tape leaving all of the toner behind. Carefully dab the board dry being sure you don't remove any toner or leave anything on the surface of the board.
7. Inspect the toner pattern for any missing elements, small areas where the toner is missing can be touched up with a permanent marker. If the whole thing is a bust clean it down with Acetone and start again. Now carefully stick some of the shelf liner on the reverse side of the PCB, this is to protect the copper on that side while we etch.
8. Now submerge you board in the etchant (see elsewhere for the etchant recipe I use) you are using until the copper is removed. Once this is finished rinse the board off with water and remove the shelf line protection. You can now remove the toner using Acetone and some kitchen roll.
9. Next drill through the alignment holes and run the pins through each hole from the etched side, now very carefully use the alignment points on the reverse design to sign up with the correct pin and tape it in place with masking tape, being careful it does not shift while you do this. then remove the pins.
10. Repeat steps 5 - 8.
11. Now you need to drill all of the holes you need, I use the drill press I have and a variety of drill bits specific to te components I'm drilling for, check the footprints you're using for that, although typically I find most passive components 0.8mm, pin headers, thonkicons, pots, eurorack power 1.0mm, spacer holes 2.5mm.
12. If you're applying solder mask then check out that process.